We leave the shop a place to stay on the outskirts of Mangkutana around at 08.00. On Friday (09/03/2012) we face a severe incline. In legible maps, route-Pendolo Mangkutana along 87 miles going through the mountains. In the first 51 kilometers we will climb from an altitude of 35 meters to 1,300 meters.

Mangkutana, a small town at the foot of Mount Balease was still squirming as we passed. The new stores open, the children go to school. Residents waved and called out to us, "Hello mister, hello how are you!"

As one tourist destination near the border of South Sulawesi and Central Sulawesi, air cool this little town has long been a haven of foreign tourists. They generally stop on the way from Toraja to Tentena located on the shores of Lake Poso. The trip was through a number of nature reserves and waterfalls in the mountains awake keasriannya.

Well, before entering the mountains, the tourists normally transit in Mangkutana. We had met some backpackers passing in this pathway using public transport across the province are here called 'Panther'. Most long-distance public transport here is using the brand's minibus.

After Mangkutana road began to climb at kilometer 13. We entered the village where lived Kasintuwu Pamona native tribes. And a winding path along the River Kalaena, splitting a large valley between two mountains.

The higher the climb, treats the beautiful mountain scenery. Kalaena large valley on the right and left slopes of Mount Balease. Cocoa plantations and various fruits such as durian, tan, rambutan nan passed into the dense forest was silent.

One-two passing vehicles every three to five minutes. The longer the interval, the higher we climbed.

Quiet and calm atmosphere. Meandering forest insects greeted us at the Nature Reserve Kalaena. In some places, black monkey Macaca fascicularis peeking above the trees, taking out sounds like a snort.

The heat starts to sting when we eat a winding hill to climb with a gradient of 25-30 degrees varies. Actually it was quite gentle, only the length and with a load of 15 kg was exhausting.

Sweat profusely as we continue to play the pedal with a combination of the lightest gear. Sweat running down wet bicycle tubing.

Unnoticed had our 30 km hike. At 11:00, when entering the nature reserve we Faruhumpenai break in the woods and cook sweet tea.

Magnificent scenery. Rows of blue mountain peaks on either side covered with clouds. Scars verdant valley and ridge covered with dense forest.

At some point along the way there are posters that indicate a conflict of interest Pamona seizure of indigenous lands. In Jakarta, the friends of indigenous activists say, the issue of customary land is an important issue in the area of ​​South Sulawesi, Central Sulawesi.

Mahir Takaka, residents stated figure, it is still struggling with customary rights of local residents. In many places, the land was converted to oil palm plantations and so on.

Beauty of the forest are not fully awake in the region. I noticed Kalaena River flows approximately 30-40 meters wide and the water is murky brown. Conditions are very different from 1994, when my friends Mahitala Unpar mengarunginya with a rubber boat. When it's clear green river. Erosion and possible damage to forest headwaters to the river so muddy and wide.

After 30 km climb to a height of 610 meters, and then declined to follow the contour of the road along the 5 miles to a height of 500 meters. Road bridge across the river upstream where the water is bubbling menurui Salonua rocks from the upper slopes.

Way back along the 29 km climb up to the provincial border and then declined sharply. Called the boundary of the monument and a large gate. There are several shops in the vicinity.

We drove down along the 10 miles to meet a two-kilometer queue of vehicles. Apparently the road cut off by landslides.

Lost along the road 20 meters. We had to unload and carry the bike pannier material across the avalanche of mud and clay rocks.

For ten days the axis line is disconnected Trans Sulawesi. Efforts to bridge emergency repairs are carried out twice, but the back ground landslide destroyed the bridge. Vehicle or to Makassar Palu forced rotate through Soroako. Trucks transporting vegetables and fruits that are stuck in the queue, was forced to let the charge decay.

One by one our bikes with full seberangkan struggle. At 18:00 we go on a trip to Pendolo are still 19 km. Heavy rain fell. Body tired, wet and cold and hunger. But we continue to advance until the Pendolo.


The path of darkness and thousands of fireflies Pendolo welcomed us in, the city on the banks of Lake Poso district. The center of a crossroads. Direction of the road around the lake are both headed Tentena along 80 km.

For cyclists, the best path through the road along the western edge of the lake ata to the left. In addition to more gentle, quiet vehicles, there are several points to enjoy views of the lake from a height. While the line further east and hilly.

Mrs. Sherly, the innkeeper said Victory in the lake, until the end of 2001, Pendolo very much alive. Small port near the house crowded by passing ships carrying foreign tourists from Tentena.

Tourists come to enjoy the lake and local specialties such as carp and sour sauce sogili. The latter is endemic to the lake a giant eel that may weigh 11 kg per head. Eel dishes are worth about Rp 90,000 per kg, in addition to odor, believed to reduce cholesterol. Unfortunately, we can not taste because there is currently an eel harvest. The new end of April many eels in the lake.

"If the ship from Tentena just two hours. Many of the tourists who ride bicycles or Tentena Mangkutana. They come here to swim in the lake," he said.

Poso riots in 2001 destroyed everything. Pendolo residents had fled. Their lives taken away. Many ships were burned, and finally no longer passing in the lake, along with the disappearance of tourists. The port city of so lonely and depressed mood. Although actually, before the riots were already deserted passenger ship with the construction of alternative roads around the lake.

Since the last five years trying to get up Pendolo residents.

"It's already started there more tourists, although not as busy as before. Facility has begun to be repaired," said Fandy, a resident who opened the diner on the corner of the intersection.

Electricity flows in Pendolo only at 18.00 until 24.00. No street lighting. Public transport to the west through Tentena only once a day with a rate of $ 30,000. From the east line twice a day with the same rate. Similarly, other means such as telephone or internet cafe as well not exist. In the midst of all the difficulties, people keep trying to restore geliatnya Pendolo as a tourist destination on the shores of Lake Poso. (Max Agung Pribadi)

Source: Kompas