Welcome To Banda Besar, Maluku
It mountainous and rugged, Banda Besar is by far the largest island in the Bandas, Maluku, and the main location of nutmeg plantations. It has about a dozen villages and several historical attractions, but virtually no tourist accommodation among there. As such it remains very quiet, especially the far side of the island looking out to Hatta and the open sea. Nevertheless, it is well worth at least a day-trip from Banda Neira, and keen hikers or those looking for isolated beaches with great reefs just off the shore could actually spend days exploring it.
In the north-west corner of the island, the village of Lonthor is home to most of the island's historical sights and is the popular destination for day-trippers. It is spectacularly located sprawling up the steep hillside overlooking Gunung Api, with a flight of stairs being its main throughfare.
The most famous and historically linked between this area is the nutmeg plantation. There are plenty of throughout the island, the biggest one sprawling right along the middle of the north coast. If you think that it was these plantations that lured here sailors from across the world in Europe one day, you might as well decide they are worth a quick look.
Like any other area in Eastern Indonesia, there are several fine beaches around the island, it mostly in isolated coves on the south coast. As such, boats are the easiest way to reach them. As usual in Banda, just by swimming in from the shore you can reach stunning reefs teeming with fish.
Various boats travel back and forth between Bandaneira and the north coast villages of Banda Besar throughout the day. If you want to make the charter one, the trip is still very cheap, costing around Rp. 25.000 one way (source in 2006).
Boats to the isolated south coast of the island are far less frequent.
There is a road of sorts connecting villages on the north coast, and you can take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) along its whole length. Otherwise, it is a pleasant walk. The isolated south coast villages can only be reached by rugged walking tracks or by chartered boats.
The first homestay on the island, seemingly mainly aimed at Dutch visitors but welcoming anyone, is a yellow-coloured family home to the left of the start of the stairs up Lonthoir. Apart from overnight accommodation, it offers drinks and meals to day-trippers.
